Tour #3 - The East Coast Tour
Driving North from Marigot Bay, you'll start your journey by
going through
extensive banana plantations with the occasional packaging plant through the
village of Ravine Poisson before climbing steeply over Barre de l'Isle, the
mountain barrier that divides the island. This area, the limit of the St. Lucia
Parrot's range, abounds in rainforest trees and fine stands of pine, blue mahoe
and mahogany.
Dennery
The road descends through Grande Rivière to Dennery
where the vegetation is mostly xerophytic scrub. Dennery is set in a sheltered
bay with Dennery Island guarding its entrance and dominated by the Roman
Catholic church.
Here you can see the distinctive St. Lucia fishing boats pulled
up on the beach. Carved out of single tree trunks, the bows are straight and
pointed rather than curved and are all named with phrases like "Gold help
me", "African Roots", "Jesus is my Lord", etc...
Between Dennery and Praslin, just off the coast, lie the
Fregate Islands, another nature reserve. The small islands, hardly larger than
protruding rocks, are the nesting spots of the majestic frigate bird.
Praslin
Your
next stop will bring you to Praslin, a community South of Dennery where local
boat builders still fashion fishing canoes from gommier trees. The Gommier tree (dacryodes hexandra)
grows in the forests of Dominica and St. Lucia. It secretes a resin that
protects it from the seawater and its heart is circular with little solidity,
making it easy to hollow out.
The trees are traditionally cut at the time of the
new moon. At any other time, the trunk is susceptible to insects. Once cut down
the trunk is stabilized and slightly elevated off the ground. Initial hollowing
out of the hull is done in the forest to make manual transportation to the
nearest road less cumbersome.
Chalks marks indicate the place where the first
incisions will be made. If the axe work is careless, the hull will split and
that will be the end of a good tree. Little by little as the opening gets
larger, wooden bars are forced in to open the hull even more and prevent the new
wood from shrinking.
Humid sand dampened with seawater is placed in the
boat. The weight opens the sides some more. The process takes about a month. The
bottom of the boat is far thicker than the sides. This must be carefully formed;
the boat's stability depends on it. Too thick, the canoe will be sluggish, too
thin and it will tip over. To maintain its final form, struts are fixed along the inside. These are made of Poirier or cedar wood.
Today, the largest gommiers measures between 7 and 9
meters (24 to 30 feet) with a depth of 40 cms (16 inches) and a width of 90 cms
(3 feet).
Vieux Fort & The Moule à Chique Lighthouse
Vieux Fort, at the southernmost point of St. Lucia,
is one of the island's oldest settlements and the site of its newest airport,
Hewanorra. The airport's name, by the way, was an Indian name for the island. It
means "land where the iguana is found".
In Vieux Fort, an industrial center, you'll find a
hodgepodge of French colonial architecture and modern concrete block houses. The
main attractions here are the beaches, miles of white sand and palm trees.
The nearly lighthouse at Moule à Chique is 730 ft above sea level
and looks
across the water to St.Vincent, just 21 miles away. From this vantage point you
can see where the Caribbean's distinct blue-green waters mix with the
darker-hued currents of the Atlantic.
The duty officer will be glad to point out the views
including the Pitons, Morne Gomier (1,028 ft) with Morne Grand Magazin (2,022
ft) behind it. Further
to the east is Piton St Esprit (1,919 ft), Morne Durocher (1,055 ft) near
Praslin and the Maria islands.
Lunch at The Fox Grove Inn
The
Fox Grove Inn's Whispering Palms restaurant is often quoted as one of the best
restaurants on the island.
The owner, Franz Louis-Fernand, with his 35 years of
international experience as a chef in the best hotels in England, France,
Belgium and Switzerland, runs the kitchen himself.
Fish
- and lobster when in season - are bought fresh from the fishermen in the
village, whilst local herbs, vegetables and fruits are selected at the market
and from local farms.
With an excellent international a la carte cuisine and
daily specials, there will be no need to dine anywhere else! The restaurant is
open daily for lunch and dinner. Friendly
waitresses as well as Franz' wife Esther are looking forward to serve you either
in the tastefully decorated restaurant or on the spacious terrace with it's
magnificent view.
Mamiku Gardens
Designed by one of the top landscape designers in
the Caribbean, Mamiku Gardens boasts beauty, nature and history. It is a
tropical blend of natural woodland trails and beautifully landscaped
gardens. The ruins of the old estate house, situated on the hill at Mamiku Gardens have an interesting, yet macabre history.
The estate was originally acquired in 1766 by the Baron de Micoud, a
colonel in the French army and a former governor of St. Lucia when it was in French
hands. The name 'Mamiku' is an adaptation of the title of the Baron's wife, who was
known as Madame de Micoud (and in true Creole fashion, the estate would have been known
as Ma Micoud's estate).
By 1796 the estate house was no longer a family home to French
aristocrats, but a British military post, set up by the famous General Sir John Moore.
The post endured much action, culminating in a famous battle with the 'Brigands' which Sir John recounts in his diary.
This battle left 15 soldiers dead, 20 wounded and the de Micoud home a burnt-out ruin. The captain of the post
committed suicide after the battle so as not to live out his life in disgrace and for two
hundred years, the de Micoud estate ruins were left virtually undisturbed.
This was not, however, the end of Mamiku Estate. It eventually
returned to its former glory as a profitable sugar estate. Today, Mamiku Estate is a hardworking plantation producing bananas,
tropical flowers and fruits, with the botanical gardens a recently-added enterprise.
An ongoing archaeological dig has uncovered fragments of 18th century pottery.
The entire estate has been owned and operated by the Shingleton-Smith family since 1906.
Drinks and snacks are served on the lovely balcony and terrace, and The
Garden Gate Shop provides interesting gift ideas. All set amid the ruins of an
18th century French estate and battleground, Mamiku Gardens is a
"must-see" adventure!
Sightseeing and Shopping in St. Lucia
St. Lucia demands to be explored. There's basically
one main road that circles the entire island, so chances of losing your way are
slim indeed. Be prepared for narrow roads, dogleg cruces, hairpin turns and more
potholes than you will care for; but be assured the trip is worth every twist
and gasp.
If you're venturing out on your own, it's a good
idea to bring along your bathing suit, a towel and something to drink. Most of the tour can be done in a full day, but to really enjoy
it, you should split it up over a couple of days or more. Get an early start and
avoid the afternoon heat.
If you plan to buy duty free items at duty free
shopping malls such as La Place Carenage, Pointe Seraphine or J. Q. Mall in
Rodney Bay, you need to bring you airline ticket and identification. You will be
required to show both when making your purchases.
Come and enjoy our beautiful island!
There
really is something for everyone in St. Lucia and it's all yours to enjoy from
The Inn On The Bay. We're sure you'll find
activities and outings that will make your stay a memorable one in every way!
Please do not hesitate to contact us if you need
more info on St. Lucia. It will be our pleasure to make sure all your
questions are answered.
We look forward to welcome you to St. Lucia!
Your hosts at The Inn On The Bay,
Louise et Normand
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